Nailon Ledgestone Plus Siding Installation

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Tools and Supplies You'll Need

  1. Nails or Screws
  2. Hammer or Screw Gun
  3. Snips or Saw for cutting siding
  4. Drill
  5. Tape Measure
  6. Level
  7. Some type of color complimenting caulk to apply as necessary
  8. Aluminum or Flashing

Basic Guidelines:

  1. Always work from left to right, completing installation on one wall before beginning another. Always start at the lowest point of the structure.
  2. As with any plastic composite exterior building materials, Nailon siding panels will expand and contract with a change in temperature. Therefore, during installation it is necessary to position the panels properly to compensate for temperature effects. Use caution not to force panels down onto the flange of the lower row, as this will override the expansion joints and may cause buckling. Storing panels in heated areas make them more pliable, allowing for easier installation in colder temperatures.
  3. Store panels on edge, do not stack flat.
  4. Nailon siding panels are intended for use in a vertical placement only, and are not designed or warranted for roofing or flooring applications.
  5. It is essential that you work over a smooth, flat, nailable wall surface, (i.e. Minimum 7/16” OSB board or plywood is recommended). Refer to the respective furring strip installation guidelines if furring strips are utilized.
  6. Non-corrosive fasteners are required to secure the panels and they must penetrate the solid substrate by at least 7/16”.
  7. If face nailing is employed, pre-drill a hole in an inconspicuous area, such as a mortar joint. The hole must be larger than the shank of the nail or screw, but smaller than the head, to allow for possible expansion. The head can be covered with caulk.
  8. Fastening the panels should not restrict panel movement. Fasteners should be driven straight into the center of any elongated hole making light contact with the panel, allowing the panel to be hung. It is best to work with the panels at waist-level, allowing the installer to inspect the back of the panels, verifying that all fingers are properly engaged.
  9. Overriding the expansion stops may restrict panel movement and cause buckling. The panel requires a minimum of eight fasteners per panel. A closer spacing of fasteners is required for high velocity wind areas.
  10. Siding has always been designed as an exterior cladding. Nailon siding is designed to allow the material underneath it to breathe; therefore, it is not a watertight covering. To achieve designed performance, siding must be installed over a weather resistant house barrier system such as house wrap.

Directions:

The panels can be installed indoors, or outdoors, on any reasonably flat surface that is clean and is in structurally sound condition.

1.) Install the starter strip at the lowest point of the structure. The structure’s solid substrate must be no less than 7/16” thick. The end of the starter strip should be positioned flush with the wall corner. Nail the starter strip every 12”. Make sure the starter strip remains level.

2.) If using vinyl corner posts, install the post BEFORE installing any panels. When using the Nailon Ledgestone molded corner, install a starter clip, open end UP and place it just above the starter strip so that the bottom of the starter clip rests on the top of the starter strip nailing flange. Ledgestone molded corners will be installed after panels from adjacent walls have been set. (See “Ledgestone Corner Installation” section below).

3.) It is recommended to determine the number of panels needed for the wall by measuring the total length of the wall in inches, subtracting the width of the corner pieces used and dividing by 40.25” (the width of one panel exposed to the weather). As you will need to cut the right end panel, ensure that it remains at least 12” wide by reducing the size of the starting panel. Be sure not to overlap the mortar joints of the panel below to ensure a pleasing and authentic stone look. Do not cut more than one end piece at this time since adjustments will be required for succeeding rows.

4.) Working from left to right, slide the first panel left, butting it flush to the corner or for use with molded corners, leave a 2 ½” to 3” gap from the corner of the wall to the edge of the installed panel. Set the first panel gently onto the starter strip making sure to properly engage all installation fingers. Do not override the functioning, positive stop posts that are in-line with the installation fingers on the back of the panel.

5.) Drive a fastener straight through the substrate while ensuring that the head only makes light contact with the panel. This allows the panel to move with varying temperatures. The panel requires a minimum of eight (8) fasteners per panel. For high velocity wind areas, a fastener is required in each nailing slot. Hook the next panel into the starter strip and slide it into the first panel assuring the two (2) side locks engage with the slots from the preceding installed panel.

6.) Install the remaining courses, repeating steps 1, 3, 4, and 5. The fastener must be flush with the panel, so as not to interfere with the succeeding row of panels. In order to achieve a realistic looking ledgestone installation, stagger each subsequent course in increments of 8”.

Never force panels down on top of each other or into each other, left to right, or else risk breaking the stop posts on the back of the panel. Set them into place gently, ensuring that all fingers and/or side locks are engaged, and allow the panels to seat themselves. The stop posts are designed to prevent buckling due to changing temperatures. Reminder: Be sure all locking fingers are properly engaged.

7.) As with any polypropylene exterior building material, ledgestone panels will expand and contract with a change in temperature. Therefore, during siding installation it is necessary to position the panels properly to compensate for temperature effects. When installing at panel temperatures from 30 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit, position the next panel so that the upper left corner of the panel’s nailing hem overlaps the previously installed panel and lines up with the vertical line. For installations at temperatures below 30 degrees F, position the next panel slightly right of the preceding panel’s edge (e.g. 1/16”). For temperatures above 100 degrees F, position slightly left so the panel overlaps the preceding panel. Once the panel has been properly spaced, insert a fastener into the center hole of the panel.

8.) Fitting stone veneer siding pieces between windows or around openings requires a cut-back spacing of 1/8" when panels are installed in cold temperatures. Similar spacing may also be necessary when fitting panels into gable ends, over roof angles, around light blocks or any other place where adequate panel movement is prevented.

9.) Nailon J-channels may be used for inside corner treatments. Panels may be scribed and cut to fit into the corner. It is recommended to sleeve the corner with vinyl or aluminum coil prior to installation of panels. Caulk corner after siding installation.

10.) When completing a wall, face nailing may be necessary. If face nailing is employed, pre-drill a hole in an inconspicuous area, such as a mortar joint. The hole must be larger than the shank of the nail or screw, but smaller than the head, to allow for possible expansion. The head can be covered with matching paint.

11.) Stand back and admire your handiwork.

Special Situations and Suggestions

Situation

  1. Panels won't lock together side to side
  2. The bottom locking fingers won’t lock into the previous row.

Items to Check

The wall may not be level and flat. Check previous panels to ensure that all panels and installation fingers are properly seated.


Situation

  1. Panels are buckling on the wall.
  2. Panels are not laying down flat.

Items to Check

Make sure the nails are not restricting panel movement. Check for proper spacing at side interlocks. Make sure all fingers are engaged into previous panel.


ATTACHING OBJECTS TO PANELS

Never attach fixtures directly to siding. When attaching fixtures, use a block and first drill a hole slightly larger than the shank of the fasteners, allowing for expansion and contraction. Note: Fasteners for fixtures must penetrate the solid substrate.


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