Installing Nailon Siding (Step-by-Step)

Step 1

Install the starter strip at the lowest point of the structure. The strip should be positioned 4'' from the wall corner allowing for the width of the corner piece. (Figure #1). Nail the starter strip every 12''. Make sure the starter strip remains level.

Step 2

Determine the number of panels needed for the wall by measuring the total length of the wall in inches,
subtracting the width of the corner pieces used and dividing by 39 1/4" (the width of one panel exposed to the weather). As you will need to cut the end panel, ensure that it remains at least 12" wide by reducing the size of the starting panel. The panel can be cut in 8'' increments anywhere along the panel, however, be sure not to overlap the mortar joints of the panel below to ensure a pleasing and authentic Brick or Stone look is maintained. Do not cut more than one end piece at this time since adjustments will be required for succeeding rows.

Step 3

Working from left to right, install the first Brick or Stone corner approximately 1/8'' below the bottom edge of the starter strip. Slide the first panel left, butting it flush to the corner. (Figures #2 and #3). Set the first panel gently onto the starter strip making sure to properly engage all installation fingers while not overriding the expansion joints (Figure #4). Slide panel left, butting to within 1/16'' of the corner. With Brick panels, be sure to match the horizontal mortar line with the corner. Note: the Stone panels have a random pattern and are not designed to match the mortar lines of the corners. You must apply a bead of mortar fill at corner/panel alignment when done (Figure #3a). Caution: Overriding the expansion joints may restrict panel movement and may cause buckling. The panel requires a minimum of five fasteners per panel. A closer spacing of fasteners is required for high velocity wind areas; for details refer to report NER-580.

Step 4

Drive nails straight through substrate while ensuring that the nail head only makes light contact with the panel. Hook the next panel into the starter strip and slide it into the first panel. Install the remaining courses repeating Steps 1-3. In order to achieve a realistic look of Brick or Stone, stagger each subsequent course in increments of 8''. (Figures #5 and #6) Never force panels down on top of each other. Set them down gently, ensuring that every finger is engaged, and allow the panels to seat themselves. Hint: Installation is easier by elevating the right side of the panel slightly. Be sure all locking fingers are properly engaged.

Step 5

When installing the Brick or Stone panels to corners or J-channels, it may be necessary to trim the installation fingers, spacers and channels on the back of the panels within 3'' of the corner or J-channel for a better fit. (Figure #7) J-Channels are made to match the mortar color and are available with both 3/4'' and 1 1/8'' pockets. The 3/4'' looks best for Brick and the 1 1/8'' is better for Stone.

Step 6

Note: Nailon provides positive stop posts by the installation fingers on the back panels. When installing succeeding rows of panels, do not force the panels beyond the stop posts. The stops are designed to prevent buckling due to changing temperatures. The panel requires a minimum of five fasteners per panel. The non-corrosive fasteners must be installed into a solid substrate of no less than 7/16'' thick.

When attaching the fasteners be sure they only lightly touch the panel allowing it to move with varying temperatures. The fastener must be installed flush with the panel, so as not to interfere with the succeeding row of panels.

Step 7

Note that panels may expand or contract up to 1/4''. Normal mortar line spacing is approximately 1/2''. If the temperature is about 30 degrees F, position the panels so the mortar line between them is about 5/8'' wide to allow for expansion in warmer weather. If the temperature is about 60 degrees F, decrease the spacing to about 1/2'' thereby allowing for both expansion and contraction as the temperature changes. If the temperature is about 90 degrees F, decrease the space further to 3/8'' to allow for contraction in colder weather. (Figure #8)

Step 8

Step 9

Alternate the start of each successive row of panels by 8'' increments. Be sure the right end piece of the row is no less than 12'' wide.

Step 10

Nailon J-channels may be used for inside corner treatments or you may scribe and cut panels to fit into the corner. It is recommended to sleave the corner with vinyl or aluminum coil prior to installation of panels. (Figures #9 and #10) Caulk corner after installation.

Step 11

When completeing a wall, face nailing may be necessary. If face nailing is employed, pre-drill a hole in an
inconspicuous area, such as a mortar joint. The hole must be larger than the shank of the nail or screw, but smaller than the head, to allow for possible expansion. The head can be covered with matching paint, or Nailon mortar fill.

Reminders

Some adjustment may need to be made at the vertical overlap of two corners (as they are installed) in order to maintain the corner/panel horizontal alignment. There is approximately a 1/2'' vertical adjustment available.

Be sure to apply a beading of mortar fill where all brick and stone panels and corners meet. (See Figure #3a)

Fitting panels between windows or around openings requires a cut-back spacing of approximately 1/8'' to
allow for product expansion.

Attaching Objects to Panels

Never attach fixtures directly to Nailon siding. When attaching fixtures, use a block and first drill a hole slightly larger than the shank of the fasteners, allowing for expansion and contraction.
Note: fasteners for fixtures must penetrate the solid substrate.

Special Situations and Suggestions
 

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1235 since April 1, 2008