If you've ever installed vinyl siding before, you will love installing our Nailon panels. They install the same way.
1.) Install the starter strip at the lowest point of the structure. The strip should be positioned 4" from the wall corner allowing for the width of the corner piece. Nail the starter strip every 12". Make sure the starter strip remains level.
2.) Determine the number of panels needed for the wall by measuring the total length of the wall in inches, subtracting the width of the corner pieces used and dividing by 39 ¼" (the width of one panel exposed to the weather). As you will need to cut the end panel, ensure that it remains at least 12" wide by reducing the size of the starting panel. The panel can be cut in 8" increments anywhere along the panel, however, be sure not to overlap the mortar joints of the panel below to ensure a pleasing and authentic Brick or Stone look is maintained. Do not cut more than one end piece at this time since adjustments will be required for succeeding rows.
3.) Working from left to right, install the first Brick or Stone corner approximately 1/8" below the bottom edge of the starter strip. Slide the first panel left, butting it flush to the corner. Set the first panel gently onto the starter strip making sure to properly engage all installation fingers while not overriding the expansion joints. Slide panel left, butting to within 1/16" of the corner. With Brick panels, be sure to match the horizontal mortar line with the corner. Note: The Stone panels have a random pattern and are not designed to match the mortar lines of the corners.
4.) Use a color complimenting caulk. Usually a 50% Silicon/Latex mixture works very well for this. Caution: Overriding the expansion joints may restrict panel movement and may cause buckling. The panel requires a minimum of five fasteners per panel. A closer spacing of fasteners is required for high velocity wind areas; for details refer to report NER-580.
5.) Drive nails straight through substrate while ensuring that the nail head only makes light contact with the panel. Hook the next panel into the starter strip and slide it into the first panel. Install the remaining courses repeating Steps 1-3. In order to achieve a realistic look of Brick or Stone, stagger each subsequent course in increments of 8".
6.) When installing the Brick or Stone panels to corners or J-channels, it may be necessary to trim the installation fingers, spacers and channels on the back of the panels within 3" of the corner or J-channel for a better fit. J-Channels are made to match the mortar color and are available with both 3/4" and 1 1/8" pockets. The 3/4" looks best for Brick and the 1 1/8" is better for Stone.
7.) Drive nails straight through substrate while ensuring that the nail head only makes light contact with the panel. Hook the next panel into the starter strip and slide it into the first panel. Install the remaining courses repeating Steps 1-3. In order to achieve a realistic look of Brick or Stone, stagger each subsequent course in increments of 8".
8.) Note that panels may expand or contract up to 1/4". Normal mortar line spacing is approximately 1/2". If the temperature is about 30 degrees F, position the panels so the mortar line between them is about 5/8" wide to allow for expansion in warmer weather. If the temperature is about 60 degrees F, decrease the spacing to about 1/2" thereby allowing for both expansion and contraction as the temperature changes. If the temperature is about 90 degrees F, decrease the space further to 3/8" to allow for contraction in colder weather.
Fitting panel pieces between windows or around openings requires a cut-back spacing of 1/8" when panels are installed in colder temperatures. Similar spacing may also be necessary when fitting panels into gable ends, over roof angles, around light blocks or any other place where adequate panel movement is prevented.
9.) Alternate the start of each successive row of panels by 8" increments. Be sure the right end piece of the row is no less than 12" wide. Nailon J-channels may be used for inside corner treatments or you may scribe and cut panels to fit into the corner. It is recommended to sleeve the corner with vinyl or aluminum coil prior to installation of panels. Caulk corner after installation.
10.) When completing a wall, face nailing may be necessary. If face nailing is employed, pre-drill a hole in an inconspicuous area, such as a mortar joint. The hole must be larger than the shank of the nail or screw, but smaller than the head, to allow for possible expansion. The head can be covered with matching paint, or use a color complimenting caulk. Usually a 50% Silicon/Latex mixture works very well for this.
Some adjustment may need to be made at the vertical overlap of two corners (as they are installed) in order to maintain the corner/panel horizontal alignment. There is approximately a 1/2'' vertical adjustment available.
Fitting panels between windows or around openings requires a cut-back spacing of approximately 1/8'' to allow for product expansion.
Never attach fixtures directly to Nailon siding. When attaching fixtures, use a block and first drill a hole slightly larger than the shank of the fasteners, allowing for expansion and contraction.
Note: Fasteners for fixtures must penetrate the solid substrate.
Items to Check
The wall may not be level and flat. Check previous panels to ensure that all panels and installation fingers are properly seated.
Items to Check
Make sure the nails are not restricting panel movement. Check for proper spacing at side interlocks. Make sure all fingers are engaged into previous panel.