Installing Windsor Faux Panels™: Advanced Instructions

- Forward
- Important notes
- Terms to know
- Basic tools / equipment
- Preparing the walls
- Accessories installation
- Panel installation
- Install trim pieces
- Advanced installation
- Touch-up
- Take-off guide
- Take-off example

Windsor polyurethane panels are designed to remain attractive and perform over time. Compared to real or cast stone, Windsor is easier to install, quicker to install, requires fewer steps and does not require masonry skills. This manual sets forth the basic guidelines for Windsor installation. Additionally it is recommended that installers review applicable building codes for variations that may apply to specific products or geographic areas. This publication is not intended to provide specific advice, legal or otherwise, on particular products or processes. Readers should consult with their own legal and technical advisors, suppliers, and other appropriate sources (including but not limited to product or package labels, technical bulletins and sales literature) that contain information about known and reasonably foreseeable health and safety risks of their proprietary products and processes. Barron Designs Inc. does not assume any responsibility for the users compliance with applicable laws and regulations, nor for any persons relying on the information contained in this guide.

The Manufacturer has provided these suggested instructions as installation guidelines. The Manufacturer, however neither installs the panels nor has any control over the installation. It is the responsibility of the contractor and/or the installer to ensure panels are installed in accordance with these instructions and any applicable building codes. The Manufacturer assumes no liability for either improper installation or personal injury resulting from improper use or installation.

STORAGE AND TRANSPORTATION
Be sure to store all panels flat, in the box, until ready for installation. Store panels around 65° before installing when possible. While polyurethane has minimal expansion and contraction, the effects of expansion and contraction can be minimized by avoiding installation during periods of extreme heat or cold. Do not store in direct sunlight before installing. When installing interior applications, make sure the panels are at the same ambient temperature as the room.

INSTALLATION BASICS
Never leave cut edges of Windsor products exposed. Exposed polyurethane will discolor and become obvious with exposure to sunlight. Use Windsor touch-up paint or color match with a good quality latex paint. Any deviation from standard Windsor installation instructions must be made watertight by use of a vapor barrier behind the product and then sealed with caulk and painted with touch-up paint.

Random Rock Panels — The original Windsor product with the look of quarried stone. Panels are 15 1/2" x 48" and cover 4.75 square feet.

Drystack Panels — A more contemporary panel which provides the look of stacked stone in a mortar-less system. Panels are 4" x 48" and cover 1.3 square feet each.

Ledgestone Panels feature the distinctive beauty of multi-colored stacked slate and stone for a fraction of the expense and installation time of actual stone. Since each faux panel is less than 7" wide, the stacking pattern replicates that of actual rock and slate, creating modern lines with a rustic look.

Accessories

Starter Strip 5' lengths-Used to begin the first (bottom) course of Windsor panels to secure the bottom of the panel and insure level installation.

Ledger 4' lengths used as a water sill to transition to another product above Windsor in wainscot installations.

Door/Window Trim 4' lengths.-Used to trim out around doors and windows and to cap or end panels.

Outside Corner-Random Rock 4' lengths-Used on 90 degree outside corners. Installed prior to the panels so that the panels fit behind the corner.

Inside Corner 4' lengths-Random Rock-Used on 90 degree inside corners. Installed prior to the panels so that the panels fit behind the corner.

Outside Corner-Drystack 38" lengths-Used on 90 degree outside corners. Installed prior to the panels so that the panels fit behind the corner.

Inside Corner-Drystack 38" lengths-Used on 90 degree inside corners. Installed prior to the panels so that the panels fit behind the corner.

Outside Corner Caps-Used with random rock outside corners to cap off corner. This is an alternative to running ledger over the top of the corner.

Inside Corner Cap- Used with random rock inside corners to cap off corner. This is an alternative to running ledger over the top of the corner.

Small Mounting Block-8" x 9" Used behind hose bibs, electrical boxes, small electrical fixtures, etc. to provide a flush mounting surface and watertight installation.

Large Mounting Block-10" x 13" Numerous uses such as mounting large electrical fixtures or as a house number block. Provides a flush surface for watertight installations.

Column Wrap Kit-4 piece kit 3' high and stackable. Use to conceal 6 x 6 or smaller structural posts. Can be capped using the column wrap cap or the 2 piece column wrap trim kit.

SAFETY EQUIPMENT
Always wear safety glasses for eye protection. Wearing a dusk mask is recommended.

HAND TOOLS
Circular saw with steel or carbide tip blade (Windsor does not dull blades and requires no special blade), 4' level, tape measure, chalk line, power or cordless drill with 4" bits or extension, framing square or speed square, jig saw or sabre saw, wood rasp, and caulking gun.

FASTENERS
Use #6 x 1 ½" flat head screws depending on substrate. Allow a minimum of 4 screws per panel. For exterior applications, we recommend good quality deck screws or stainless steel screws. Applications to concrete require mechanical fasteners as well as adhesive to allow the adhesive to set up. There are numerous products on the market, such as concrete screws, to accomplish this as well as new adhesives which may not require mechanical fasteners. Plumbers tape is used to install outside corners. Allow 1 roll for 5 outside corners.

ADHESIVE
The use of adhesives is optional however it may result in an easier installation process. Barron Designs Inc. recommends use of a good quality polyurethane adhesive such as Sonneborn CX- 948, PL Premium Construction Adhesive or Sonneborn Premium. Solvent based adhesives (most construction adhesives) are not compatible with polyurethane and should never be used. If using an adhesive other than those Barron Designs Inc. recommends, test on a panel prior to beginning installation.

NEW CONSTRUCTION

Step 1
Make sure all studs are straight and true to avoid bulges or dips in the finished wall which will result obvious panel joints on the finished Windsor product. Correct any bowed studs at this time.

Step 2
Make sure all sheathing is properly fastened to the framing according to building code requirements and/or the sheathing manufacturer's recommendations. Windsor panels should be applied over a sheathing that provides a smooth, flat, stable surface. Consult local building codes for sheathing requirements.

Step 3
Make sure sub wall assembly is weather tight before applying Windsor panels. Windsor accessories alone may not constitute a waterproof installation. Wall sheathing should be weather-resistant, or covered with a weather-resistant barrier such as fanfold insulation, housewrap, or building paper. Independent studies indicate that the combination of a weather resistant barrier plus a housewrap results in improved weather performance. Some building code jurisdictions are currently requiring this protection. A weather-resistant covering should be properly fastened according to the manufacturer's instructions, and be smooth and even. Flashing and caulking should be added as needed in such areas as transition from Windsor ledgers to other siding products, windows, and doors to control moisture and protect the sub wall assembly.

APPLYING WINDSOR PRODUCTS TO EXSISTING STRUCTURES

Step 1
Secure or remove any loose siding and replace any rotten wood. Scrape off loose caulk and any other build-up that may interfere with Windsor installation. Remove all items such as downspouts, light fixtures, vents. etc. in the area to be covered.

Step 2
Install suitable sheathing, as needed, to provide a smooth, flat, and stable surface for the installation of the Windsor panels. See information in step 3 of the new construction section for additional instructions on sub wall protection and flashing.

OVER MASONRY SUB-SURFACE

Step 1
A smooth, flat, stable surface is required for a proper installation of Windsor panels. Concrete walls may need some filling to accomplish this unless they are in good condition. Uneven walls may require furring strips to provide a flat surface.

Step 2
When applying Windsor panels directly to concrete walls the use of adhesive is recommended. In order to hold the Windsor panels in place until the adhesive sets up, mechanical fasteners, such as concrete screws, may be required. New adhesives recently introduced, such as Loctite® Power Grab®, are compatible with polyurethane and may eliminate the need for mechanical fasteners. Barron Designs Inc. recommends testing these products or consulting with the manufacturer before using this or similar products.

STARTER STRIP

Step 1
In order for Windsor panels to be installed properly in a level fashion, the starter strip at the bottom of the wall must be level.

Step 2
Determine the lowest point on the wall that will be sided; from that point measure up 3" and partially drive a nail at one corner..

Step 3
Attach a chalk line: go to the next corner, repeat step 2, and pull the line taut. Make sure the line is level by using a line level or 4' level.

Step 4
Snap the chalk line and repeat the procedure on each area to be covered.

Step 5
Backset the starter from the edge 1 ¾" for outside corners, 2 ¼" for door/window trim or 3 ¾" for inside corners.

Step 6
Place the top edge of the starter strip on the chalk line with the “v" at the bottom away from the wall. Screw the starter to the substrate using screws every 16". Check for level.

INSTALLING THE OUTSIDE CORNER

Step 1
Determine how you plan to finish the corner as this will dictate the length of the corner. Corners can be finished with ledger or with corner caps. For ledger finish the top of the corner (the end with the lip on top) should be 1 3/8" below the top of the flange on the top panel. For corner caps, it is at the installer's discretion. Dry fit if the top panel must be cut horizontally.

Step 2.
Cut 6 pieces of plumbers strap approx 6" long. With the corner upside-down so that the “stair-step' blocks are exposed, attach the strap to the top block on the left side so that it extends out at a right angle to the corner, do the same to the 3rd block and to the bottom block, then to the same three blocks on the right side.

Step 3
Apply the corner so that the bottom of the corner lines up with the bottom of the first panel and screw through the end of the strap into the structure. You may also wish to glue the corner using polyurethane adhesive.

Step 4
If more than one length of outside corner is required, stack the corners by locking the male end at the top of the corner to the female end on the bottom of the corner.

INSTALLING THE INSIDE CORNER

Step 1
Determine how you plan to finish the corner as this will dictate the length of the corner. Corners can be finished with ledger or with corner caps. For ledger finish, the top of the corner (the end with the lip on top) should be 1 5/8" below the top of the flange on the top panel. For corner caps, it is at the installer's discretion. Dry fit if the top panel must be cut horizontally.

Step 2
Locate corner so that the bottom of the corner will be flush with the bottom of the bottom panel. Screw thru the recessed channel at top, bottom and middle of each side of the corner using at least a 4 1/2" screw. Adhesive maybe applied to the blocks on the back side of the corner, if appropriate for the installation.

Step 3
If more than one length of outside corner is required, stack the corners by locking the male end at the top of the corner to the female end on the bottom of the corner.

INSTALLING DOOR/WINDOW TRIM

Step 1
Door/Window Trim can be used as a utility trim to terminate sections of Windsor panels, as a cap, or as a trim piece around windows and doors. For most applications it needs to be installed prior to the panels. Door/Window Trim is typically capped by a ledger or mitered at a 45° angle to make a 90° corner.

Step 2
Measure the total height of the wall before the ledger attachment to determine quantity and length of pieces.

Step 3
Use a level when locating Door/Window Trim. Install with dado away from the frame. Screw at a 45 degree angle through the top of the piece and down along the inside edge, making sure to attach securely to the underlying substrate. To miter for use with ledger, cut the top of the piece on a 15°angle, with the long side of the angle against the wall.

Step 4
If more than one length of ledger is required, butt ledgers using finished ends and caulk joint. If desired a wood rasp can be used to round edges of the door/window trim to provide a more realistic look. Touch-up paint can be applied to the area formed with the rasp. Always use a finished end to start and terminate a section of door window trim. Cut ends can be butted tight and concealed with touch-up paint.

RANDOM ROCK PANEL INSTALLATION

Step 1.
Starting from the left, take a full panel and attach the bottom tongue into the starter strip groove, lock in place, and slide the panel behind the accessory piece. Using the screw guide points, screw through the substrate and into a stud, when practical, every 16", with a minimum of 4 screws per panel and a screw no less than 1" from each end of the tongue. Working left to right continue installing panels in the bottom course being sure each panel is properly seated in the starter strip. For the last panel in the course, measure from the edge of the grout line to the accessory piece and add 1" Cut the last piece and slide behind the accessory piece until the panel is locked in the starter strip, then slide panel back to the left until the shiplap sides are joined. Check for level.

Step 2.
Install the remaining courses by beginning the second course from the left with a portion of a panel, using the off fall from the previous course if possible. Slide the panel down over the tongue of the first row. Then slide the panel left behind the trim piece and screw in place as before. Install remaining panels in the course, end row as before, and check for level. Align panels using the alignment mark at each side on the tongue. Do not align panels using the top of the tongue. The remaining courses are installed the same way. Stagger the Windsor butt joints so that no two courses are aligned vertically unless separated by three courses. All exposed edges should be behind trim pieces. Any exposed edges must be painted or caulked.

DRYSTACK PANEL INSTALLATION

Step 1
Starting from the left, take a full panel and attach the bottom tongue into the starter strip groove, lock in place, and slide the panel behind the accessory piece.

Step 2
Using the screw guide points, screw through the substrate and into a stud, when practical, every 16", with a minimum of 6 screws per panel and a screw no less than 1" from each end of the tongue. In addition to screwing through the tongue a minimum of 1 screw (preferably 2 screws) should be installed through the lap on the side of the panel. PRESS DOWN AND PRESS PANEL FIRMLY AGAINST PIECE TO THE LEFT. Maintain continuous pressure to push the panels tightly together when attaching to the structure.

Step 3
For the last panel in the course, measure from the edge of the grout line to the accessory piece and add 1" Cut the last piece and slide behind the accessory piece until the panel is locked in the starter strip, then slide panel back to the left until the shiplap sides are joined. Check for level.

Step 4
Drystack panels have 8 unique panel configurations numbered, 1 through 8, molded into the back of the panel. Avoid placing like numbered panels next to or above each other. The illustration below shows a random installation using drops from the previous course to start each new course. If there are no drops, randomly cut the starting panel to length.

OPTIONAL ADHESIVE INSTALLATION

Step 1
Lightly sand ridges on the back of the panel to remove any mold release agent that may have adhered to the panel. The mold release agent will interfere with the adhesion of the panel.

Step 2
Apply a 3/8" bead of adhesive along vertical ridges of the panel.

Step 3
Remember to always use an adhesive which is of good quality and is compatible with polyurethane. In order for adhesives to set up, mechanical fasteners may be required to hold panels in place.

IMPORTANT

Make sure all sheathing is properly fastened to the framing according to building code requirements and/or the sheathing manufacturer's recommendations. Windsor panels should be applied over a sheathing that provides a smooth, flat, stable surface. Consult local building codes for sheathing requirements.

INSTALL THE LEDGER

Step 1
The Ledger makes an ideal transition to other materials. The Ledger can attach in 3 different ways: The most common installation is directly over the top row of the tongue. Alternate methods are discussed below.

Step 2
Measure the total length of Ledger required. It is important to end both sides of the wall with finished ledger ends. It is best to take the total length, and cut equal amounts from ledger pieces in the center of the wall. This allows a tight union between the pieces with finished edges on each side. Measure and cut each ledger required for a center union and cut each end square for a good fit. Use rasp to round edges on factory ends to enhance appearance. Use touch-up paint on the rasped area.

Step 3
Toe Screw the Ledger to the underlying substrate, with screws placed minimum 16" apart. Ledgers can also be attached by toe screwing underneath the ledger piece. Additionally, gluing is recommended. Before gluing, lightly sand the ledger gluing surface for better bonding.

Step 4
Exterior applications require flashing if other siding products are used above the ledger. Flashing can cover screws used to attach the ledger for professional results.

Step 5
If the ledger is used to go over the top of outside or inside corner accessories a compound miter is required. This can be achieved using a chop saw or radial arm saw. Place the ledger on the saw table with the back of the ledger flush against the fence (just the way it sits when applied), and make a 45°mitre cut. The corner will then require caulking and Windsor touch-up paint.

INSTALL LEDGER ON CUT PANEL (ALTERNATE INSTALLATION METHOD)

Step 1
If the top panel must be cut horizontally and the tongue removed, the ledger is installed using the flat portion on the bottom of the ledger. The ledger is then glued to the wall behind it and screwed using the methods described above.

INSTALL LEDGER USING MOUNTING BLOCKS-(ALTERNATE INSTALLATION METHOD)

Step 1
Ledgers can be installed using mounting blocks for a totally concealed fastening system. This installation method is primarily recommended for interior applications only. On the back side of the ledger below the tongue are three pockets. These pockets are made to accommodate wood blocks made from standard 1 x 6 nominal material cut 1 1/2" long. Viewing the ledger from the front, the centerlines of the pockets are 8 5/16" from the right end, 21 7/8" from the right end, and 35 3/8" from the right end. Dry fit ledger and mark location of the top and right end of the ledger. Blocks should be fastened to the wall and located to align with the pockets. The top of the blocks should be 3/4" below the top of the ledger. The ledger is then placed on the panel as with the previously described methods. After placing the ledger onto the mounting blocks, drive a screw from the bottom of the ledger into the mounting blocks. Adhesive should be applied to the blocks and to the ledger using the method illustrated on the previous page.

INSTALL MOUNTING BLOCKS

Step 1
Locate the center of the object to be mounted on the mounting block (outlet box, hose bibb, electrical box, etc.). Next, locate on the previous course where the bottom of the panel to be cut out will fall when installed and mark. Then locate where the edge of the panel to be cut out will fall on the panel to the left and mark. Measure from the center of the object to the mark locating bottom of the panel and measure to the mark locating where the left edge of the panel will fall.

Step 2
Transfer these measurements to the back of the panel being cut out and mark. This mark should correspond with the center of the object. Using this mark as center draw a rectangle 7 1/2" x 10 1/2" for the large mounting lock or 5" x 6" for the small mounting block.. Mounting blocks can be installed horizontally or vertically.

Step 3
Using the rectangle you drew on the back of the panel as a cutting guide, cutout the panel. Install the cutout panel in the standard fashion.

Step 4
On the back side of the mounting block you will see a preformed area molded into the block. On the large mounting block it is a round area for round outlet boxes. On the small mounting block are preformed areas for plumbing rough-in, single and double outlet boxes, and round fixture cutouts.

Step 5
Determine which cut out and what size is appropriate. Drill a hole on the side of the cut out area to use as a starter hole. Cut the cut out using a sabre saw. Always cut from the back of the mounting block to avoid marring the surface of the mounting block. If necessary, use a wood rasp to fine tune the cutout.

Step 6
Apply caulk and/or adhesive to the back of the mounting block to seal between the mounting block and the panel. Put the mounting block in place and attach with 3" screws. Place screws where they will be concealed by the cover plate of the fixture, if possible.

Step 7
Attach electrical boxes to the face of the cover plate as applicable. Install the fixture and it's cover plate. Caulk around fixture as necessary.

INSTALL COLUMN WRAP

Step 1
Each column wrap kit consists of 4 unique panels which are identified with a number molded into the back of the panel. Always avoid placing a panel of the same number directly above an identical panel. In addition to the 4 column wrap pieces, you will find 4 starter pieces and 4 center brace pieces which are taped to the back side of the 2nd piece in the box.

To install the first panel, first measure column or post to make sure it is 5 ½ “X 5 ½" (plus or minus ¼"). In not, furr out or plane off as necessary. Next, draw a center line from bottom to top of the post to be covered on each side. Determine the starting height and mark a line around all sides of the post at that height using a Speed Square or T-Square to draw the line Barron Designs Inc. recommends starting column wraps ¼" from ground.

Step 2
Align the starter piece (T-shaped piece) on Center Line and Bottom line of the first side on the post and secure with 2 screws.

Step 3
To locate the center brace mark a line around all four sides of the post 17" from bottom of starter piece again using a speed square or t-square. Place the Center Brace on center line and 17" horizontal line and secure with 2 screws.

Step 4
Mount the #1 panel of the column wrap by sliding it down onto the starter piece and center brace so both center brace and starter piece engage column wrap piece firmly. Each Column Wrap panel is designed to slide down the post face and “lock" into place over the center brace and starter piece. Then secure tongue on top with 2 screws, making sure the center mark of the panel lines up with the center line of the post. Occasionally, the pieces need to be tapped into place to firmly secure the panel to the starter piece and center brace. Using a scrap of wood and hammer, lightly tap the top of the piece until firmly in place.

Step 5
Install the remaining panels (#2, #3, #4) of the column wrap by repeating the above steps. Insure that the tongues on the sides of each piece properly interlock with the groove on the side of the preceding piece. This will complete the first course.

Step 6
Additional rows require only the center brace as the tongue of the lower piece acts as the starter. Mark a line around column 17" from top of previous row as measured from top of the piece not the top of tongue. Align the center brace on center line and 17" Line and secure with 2 screws as before. Place a # 2 panel on top of Panel #1. Lock panel in place making sure center brace and top of lower row engage the column wrap firmly. Repeat process using panels #3, #4 and #1 in same direction as 1st row was applied remembering not to place identically number panels above each other. Continue adding courses until the desired height is achieved.

TERMINATION OF THE COLUMN WRAP: FULL COLUMN

Step 1
Cut the column wrap pieces on the final course to the desired height. Use and install the center brace if final piece is taller than 18". If the final course height is less than a full piece, face screw the top of the piece and caulk the screw holes. Flash as necessary.

TERMINATION OF THE COLUMN WRAP: WAINSCOT APPLICATION USING THE 2 PIECE TRIM KIT

Step 1
Cut the column wrap pieces on the final course to the desired height. Use and install the center brace if final piece is taller than 18". If the final course height is less than full piece, face screw the top of the piece and caulk the screw holes. Place Column Wrap Trim Kit (separate 2 piece set) over last row. The trim kit is designed to interlock with the tongue on the panels and the dove tail ends of the 2 pieces interlock together. If the tongue is present, apply adhesive to the tongue and interlock with the trim kit. If the tongue is not present, the trim kit can be attached using finish nails or trim head screws and/or adhesive. Caulk any nail or screw holes and caulk to seal and secure cap, as necessary. Flash over trim kit as necessary.

Step 2 (if required)
With posts that are over 5 ½", the Column Wrap Trim Kit may need to be trimmed to give a larger inside opening. This can be achieved with a table saw, skill saw, carpenters knife, rasp, or a combination of these tools. Using a table saw, remove the desired amount from the inside of the Column Wrap Trim Kit After using a table or skill saw, remove the final excess with a knife or rasp . After doing a “dry fit" to make sure the Column Wrap Trim Kit fits snugly, apply adhesive to the column wrap kit bottom, and lock the 2 pieces together using the dove tail ends of the 2 pieces.

TERMINATION OF THE COLUMN WRAP: POST CAP

Step 1
Cut the column wrap pieces on the final course to the desired height. Use and install the center brace if final piece is taller than 18". If the final course height is less than a full piece, face screw the top of the piece and caulk the screw holes. Place Post Cap (separate 1 piece set) over last row on the top of the post and use caulk and/or polyurethane adhesive to seal and secure the cap.

The following are instructions for installations which are uncommon or where the installer prefers to use an alternative installation method.

TRANSITION FROM A LEFT SHIPLAP PIECE (1ST GENERATION DRYSTACK), TO A RIGHT SHIPLAP PIECE (2ND GENERATION).

Step 1
Left and Right tongue panels can be mixed, if necessary, because once installed the appearance is identical. The easiest technique is to avoid mixing panels on the same course, wherever practical. No additional steps are required-install as usual.

Step 2
If it is necessary to mix panels on the same course first install the 1st generation panel (s). On the 2nd generation panel, mark a line 4" from the left side of the panel, and cut the panel on a 22 degree bevel with the short side the back of the panel. Butt the cut panel to the attached (1st generation) panel and continue installation. This assumes you are installing from left to right and that you are switching from the old panel to the new. You can adjust using this basic principle if your installation circumstances are different.

MITRED OUTSIDE CORNER INSTALLATION

Step 1
In some situations the installer may prefer to do a mitre cut at the corner rather than use the outside corner accessory pieces. This application is most common when the corner is not a 90° corner but it works equally well on 90° corners.

Step 2
In exterior applications the corner must first be made water-tight by installing A moisture barrier prior to installing the Windsor panels.

Step 3
Both sides of the corner should be cut from the same panel or another panel of the same configuration (the number on the back is the same). In this way the individual “rocks" will wrap around the corner. You will have to lay out the first course so that the last panel that will be used to form the corner is at least 8" too long. Cut the panel at the appropriate angle (one half of the angle of the corner) and install as previously explained. Next cut the drop at the same angle and install the other side of the corner making as tight a joint as possible. For example, if you were installing Windsor panels on a 7' wide wall with a 90° corner, the second panel would make the corner. You would cut the panel on a 45° mitre so that it was 3' measured on the short side and install. You would then cut the drop-off piece (1') at 45° and install it on the other side of the corner. Be sure you stagger each course so that the corner cut does not fall at the same place on the panel used to make the corner.

Step 4
In exterior applications run a bead of caulk along the joint where the panels butt together. This can be concealed with touchup paint if you wish.

Step 5
Because there is variation in thickness within each individual “rock", there will be small areas of exposed polyurethane where the panels were cut which must be coated with touch-up paint. In addition, you may wish to conceal the caulk line by painting with touch-up paint.

USING DOOR/WINDOW TRIM TO MAKE A CORNER EITHER MORE OR LESS THAN 90°

Step 1
If your application calls for a corner trim that is not a 90° right angle, you can construct a corner on any angle using two pieces of door/window trim back to back. With a table saw cut the back (the side (the side that would be away from the panel and against a door) of the door/window trim pieces length-wise at an angle half that of the wall, i.e. if the adjoining wall was at a 45° angle, you would cut the trim piece at a 22 1/2° angle.

Step 2
Install the door/window trim pieces so that the back (cut) sides are firmly against each other.

Step 3
Install the panels in the usual fashion by sliding them behind the flange of the trim piece. Run a bead of caulk along the joint where the trim pieces butt together on the top and front.

FINISHING THE JOB FOR A PROFESSIONAL APPEARANCE

Cuts which result in exposed polyurethane must be coated to prevent discoloration which will be quite noticeable over time. The Windsor Touch Up Kit includes three 4 oz. bottles of color matched paint. One for each color in our tri-color panels and 3 bottles of gray in the Lava Gray touch up kit. Also included is an aerosol spray head which screws on to the paint bottles converting them to a “spray" paint for easy application. Also a 1/2" brush to touch up small areas is included in the touch-up kit..

Step 1
Inspect the job closely for any nicks, scratches or exposed cut edges of panels and apply the appropriate touch-up paint.. Some applications may require caulking which can be concealed with touch-up paint. Any areas where deviation from standard Windsor installation practices is required must be caulked and touched up.

Step 2
Windsor touch up paint is a latex base and can be cleaned-up with warm, soapy water. Clean hands, spills and tools immediately after use. The paint has been thinned to be used with the spray gun however additional thinning, if necessary, can be done by adding water. Protect from freezing.

Step 3
Touch-up paint can be applied by using the brush or using the Preval® Spray Gun and is at the user's discretion. If you chose to use the Preval® Spray Gun insert the plastic dip tube into the opening on the bottom of the Spray Head, remove the plastic cap from the bottle of paint, and screw the Preval® Spray Gun onto the bottle. If you need to use more than one touch-up color, follow cleaning instructions on the Preval® box. Instructions for the Preval® Spray Gun, as provided by the manufacturer , are on the box containing the Preval® Spray Gun.

CLEAN-UP

The natural appearance of Windsor products are maintained with little effort. Although Windsor products will get dirty, like anything exposed to the atmosphere, a heavy rain or a simple washing with a garden hose will do wonders. If additional cleaning is required the following steps outline the recommended cleaning procedure.

Step 1
Any liquid soap or a light spray of simple green or the equivalent, followed by light brushing with a soft bristle brush will work with our product. Barron Designs Inc. recommends using whatever product you choose on a small area first, to check for color fastness. You can either use a soft bristle brush with a garden hose or a pressure washer, but if you use a pressure washer, be SURE not to get closer than 12 inches and not more than 1500 PSI.

Step 2
For mildew we recommend the cleaning solution X-90. It is very effective in removing mildew from vinyl siding, and will work on our product. Windsor products are designed to be resistant to the elements as well as all but the most caustic man-made products but it would be prudent to test a small area first with any new product.

Guidelines to help you insure you have the correct products to complete your job.

1. Perimeter of area to be covered_______ft. /5=______pcs of starter (round up to next full number).

Starter Strip. Starter strip comes in 5' sections. A starter is required under each panel on the bottom course.

2. # of outside corners______.

Outside Corner. Random Rock Outside Corners come in 4' sections which can be stacked or capped with corner cap. Drystack Outside Corners are 3' sections and are stacked or finished with ledger. You will use this accessory when you have Windsor panels on 2 walls at right angles to each other.

3. # of inside corners______.

Inside Corner. Random Rock Inside Corners come in 4' sections which can be stacked or capped with corner cap. Drystack Inside Corners are 3' sections and are stacked or finished with ledger You will use this accessory when you have Windsor panels on 2 walls at right angles to each other.

4. 4' pieces of door/window trim_______. List height and width of all doors and windows. For openings over 4' you will need two, possibly three, pieces.

Door/Window Trim. Door/Window Trim comes in 4' sections. You will use this accessory on all four sides of windows as well as the top and sides of door openings.

5. Width of the area to be covered ______ft. /4=_________Number of panels per course. # of courses (see below) ____________. Multiply the panels per course X the number of courses= _____________Number of panels. Check with your supplier for full box quantities.

Random Rock panels are 15 ½" x 48"Drystack panels are 4 7/8" x 47 3/8".1 course with ledger will cover 16 5/8" of wall height1 course with ledger will cover 6 1/2" of wall height2 courses with ledger will cover 30 5/8" of wall height2 courses with ledger will cover 10 1/16" of wall height3 courses with ledger will cover 44 5/8" of wall height" 3 courses with ledger will cover 14" of wall height" Add 14" of wall height for each additional course. Remember that you can use many cuts (drops) to start or end a course reducing the number of panels needed.. Add 3 15/16" of wall height for each additional course. Remember that you can use many cuts (drops) to start or end a course reducing the number of panels needed.

6. Width of area to be covered ft. /4 = Number of pieces of ledger required.

Stone Ledger. Ledger comes in 4' pieces. You will use this accessory along the top of the top course of panels.

7. Number of outside corner caps_________.

Outside corner caps are used to cap off outside corners at the ledger. This should be equal to the number of outside corners in step 2 unless you are stacking corners.

8. Number of inside corner caps__________.

Inside corner caps are used to cap off inside corners at the ledger. This should be equal to the number of inside corners in step 3 unless you are stacking corners.

9. Plumbers tape or metal strap to attach corners_______. (Not supplied by Barron Designs Inc.).

10. 12 oz. tubes of caulk________. (Most applications do not require caulk.)

11. Touch-Up Kit ______.

Touch-up kits contain 3-4 oz. bottles of paint-one for each color palette used in the panel (lava gray excepted), a brush and a Preval Spray Head.

12. Fasteners________.

1 lb. of 1 ½" deck screws should do approximately 100 sq ft.

13. Adhesive________.

Use a premium polyurethane adhesive such as Chemtrex 948, Sonneborn Polyurethane Premium, or PL Premium

The project is to apply Windsor Random Rock wainscoting to this entryway at height of 3 panels.

1. Perimeter of area to be covered_12______ft. 5=__3___pcs of starter (round up to next full number).

2. # of outside corners__1____. Height of each corner__3.75___ft. /4 (round up to next whole number) ___1____. Multiply 1st figure X 2nd figure____1______= Pieces of outside corner.

3. # of inside corners_2_____. Height of each corner___3.75___ft. /4 (round up to next whole number) ___1____. Multiply 1st figure X 2nd figure____2______= Pieces of inside corner.

4. 4' pieces of door/window trim____5_____. List height and width of all doors and windows. For openings over 4' you will need two, possibly three, pieces.

Door is 36" x 80". Trim will be required only to a height if 44 5/8" on one side= 1 pc Window is 30" above porch and 20" wide. It will require 2 pcs 14 5/8" on sides and 1 pc 26" on bottom= 2 pcs. In addition 1 piece will be required to start and end the covered area= 2 pcs

5. Width of the area to be covered__12__________ft. /4=_____3____Number of panels per course. # of courses (see below) ______3______. Multiply the first number X the second number= _____9________Number of panels. Check with your supplier for full box quantities.

6. Width of area to be covered 12 ft. /4 = 3 Number of pieces of ledger required.

7. Number of outside corner caps__1_______.

8. Number of inside corner caps____2______.

9. Plumbers tape or metal strap to attach corners___1____.

10. Zero

11. Zero

12. Fasteners. 1 lb. of 1 ½" deck screws should do approximately 100 sq ft.____1/2___. Lbs.

MAKE SURE to observe and obey all safety rules and recommendations set forth by tool manufacturers
and local, state, and federal authorities for any building project including all applicable building codes.