The panels can be installed indoors, or outdoors, on any reasonably flat surface that is clean and is in structurally sound condition.
1.) Build framing under the home with either metal or pressure treated lumber. In warmer climates where the ground does not freeze, you can secure the framing both to the underside of the home and into the ground. In colder areas where ground freeze does occur, attach the framing to the home, suspending it at least 6" from the ground. Suspended framing should be staked to the ground. You can fill the space with landscaping or ground cover for an aesthetically pleasing, finished look.
Vertical framing should be no more than 36" apart with horizontal connectors or strapping forming a flush surface to mount the panels.
2.) Measure from the bottom of the home down 18" (panel height) to determine the position of the horizontal strapping. This helps ensure the top row will finish with a full brick and a nailing flange. You can finish the top edge of the panel with an inverted J-channel, Nailon ledge trim or other finished trim piece.
For spaces more than 36" high, additional strapping will be required every 18".
3.) Install the universal starter strip at the lowest point of the installation. The strip should be positioned 4" from the corner allowing for the width of the corner piece. Nail the starter strip every 12". Make sure the starter strip remains level and square. If needed, cut the bottom row of panels to the desired height with a fine-toothed circular saw or table saw. Reverse the blade, cutting into the face of the panel to minimize chipping. If it becomes necessary to cut the bottom of the panels, the starter strip can no longer be used and it will become necessary to secure the bottom row of panels by face nailing no less than 5 nails per panel into an inconspicuous location such as the mortar line. Face nailing requires pre-drilling a hole slightly larger than the shank of the fastener, allowing room for expansion and contraction. The head can be covered with matching paint or mortar fill.
Note: When securing panels, do not attach fasteners tightly. They should only make light contact allowing panels to expand and contract in changing temperatures. Fasteners should always be non-corrosive.
4.) Install corner piece in alignment with the ultimate position of the panels. Only install the corner of the row you are working on, the corner for the next row, and no more than 2 corners high at a time, so as not to override the adjustability. With Brick panels, be sure to match the horizontal mortar line with the corner. Note that Stone panels have a random pattern and are not designed to match the mortar lines of the corners. You must apply a bead of mortar fill at corner/panel alignment when done.
5.) Measure the length of the wall and adjust the width of the first piece so as not to finish with a small end piece less than 12''. Install the first panel onto the starter strip making sure to engage every locking finger. Set the panel lightly onto the starter strip.
Do not force the panel downward or you may override the expansion joints. Slide panel left into the corner. Once in position, secure the top of the panel with no less than 5 fasteners.
Repeat Step Five with succeeding panels and rows. Stagger succeeding rows in 8'' increments to achieve a natural and realistic Brick or Stone look, while avoiding overlapping vertical mortar lines. A bead of mortar fill must be applied where the panel and corner meet.
Check your local ordinances for the amount of ventilation required. Panels can be cut and vents can be installed as required. Leave a removable section for underside access as required.
MAKE SURE to observe and obey all safety rules and recommendations set forth by tool manufacturers and local, state, and federal authorities for any building project including all applicable building codes.