Installing Nailon Brick Siding

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Tools and Supplies You'll Need

  1. Nails or Screws
  2. Hammer or Screw Gun
  3. Snips or Saw for cutting siding
  4. Drill
  5. Tape Measure
  6. Level
  7. Some type of color complimenting caulk to apply as necessary
  8. Aluminum or Flashing

Basic Guidelines:

  1. Always work from left to right, completing installation on one wall before beginning another. Always start at the lowest point of the structure.
  2. As with any plastic composite exterior building materials, Nailon siding panels will expand and contract with a change in temperature. Therefore, during installation it is necessary to position the panels properly to compensate for temperature effects. Use caution not to force panels down onto the flange of the lower row, as this will override the expansion joints and may cause buckling. Storing panels in heated areas make them more pliable, allowing for easier installation in colder temperatures.
  3. Store panels on edge, do not stack flat.
  4. Nailon siding panels are intended for use in a vertical placement only, and are not designed or warranted for roofing or flooring applications.
  5. It is essential that you work over a smooth, flat, nailable wall surface, (i.e. Minimum 7/16” OSB board or plywood is recommended). Refer to the respective furring strip installation guidelines if furring strips are utilized.
  6. Non-corrosive fasteners are required to secure the panels and they must penetrate the solid substrate by at least 7/16”.
  7. If face nailing is employed, pre-drill a hole in an inconspicuous area, such as a mortar joint. The hole must be larger than the shank of the nail or screw, but smaller than the head, to allow for possible expansion. The head can be covered with caulk.
  8. Fastening the panels should not restrict panel movement. Fasteners should be driven straight into the center of any elongated hole making light contact with the panel, allowing the panel to be hung. It is best to work with the panels at waist-level, allowing the installer to inspect the back of the panels, verifying that all fingers are properly engaged.
  9. Overriding the expansion stops may restrict panel movement and cause buckling. The panel requires a minimum of eight fasteners per panel. A closer spacing of fasteners is required for high velocity wind areas.
  10. Siding has always been designed as an exterior cladding. Nailon siding is designed to allow the material underneath it to breathe; therefore, it is not a watertight covering. To achieve designed performance, siding must be installed over a weather resistant house barrier system such as house wrap.

Directions:

If you've ever installed vinyl siding before, you will love installing our Nailon panels. They install the same way.

1.) Install the starter strip at the lowest point of the structure. The strip should be positioned 4" from the wall corner allowing for the width of the corner piece. Nail the starter strip every 12". Make sure the starter strip remains level.

2.) Determine the number of panels needed for the wall by measuring the total length of the wall in inches, subtracting the width of the corner pieces used and dividing by 39 ¼" (the width of one panel exposed to the weather). As you will need to cut the end panel, ensure that it remains at least 12" wide by reducing the size of the starting panel. The panel can be cut in 8" increments anywhere along the panel, however, be sure not to overlap the mortar joints of the panel below to ensure a pleasing and authentic Brick look is maintained. Do not cut more than one end piece at this time since adjustments will be required for succeeding rows.

3.) Working from left to right, install the first Brick or Stone corner approximately 1/8" below the bottom edge of the starter strip. Slide the first panel left, butting it flush to the corner. Set the first panel gently onto the starter strip making sure to properly engage all installation fingers while not overriding the expansion joints. Slide panel left, leaving an approximate 1/2" gap between the inside of the corner and the end of the Panel (to allow for normal expansion and contraction due to changes in ambient temperature and humidity).

4.) Drive nails straight through substrate while ensuring that the nail head only makes light contact with the panel. Hook the next panel into the starter strip and slide it into the first panel. Install the remaining courses repeating Steps 1-3. In order to achieve a realistic look of Brick, stagger each subsequent course in increments of 8".

5.) Drive nails straight through substrate while ensuring that the nail head only makes light contact with the panel. Hook the next panel into the starter strip and slide it into the first panel. Install the remaining courses repeating Steps 1-3. In order to achieve a realistic look of Brick, stagger each subsequent course in increments of 8".

6.) Drive nails straight through substrate while ensuring that the nail head only makes light contact with the panel. Hook the next panel into the starter strip and slide it into the first panel. Install the remaining courses repeating Steps 1-3. In order to achieve a realistic look of Brick, stagger each subsequent course in increments of 8".

7.) Note that panels may expand or contract up to 1/4". Normal mortar line spacing is approximately 1/2". If the temperature is about 30 degrees F, position the panels so the mortar line between them is about 5/8" wide to allow for expansion in warmer weather. If the temperature is about 60 degrees F, decrease the spacing to about 1/2" thereby allowing for both expansion and contraction as the temperature changes. If the temperature is about 90 degrees F, decrease the space further to 3/8" to allow for contraction in colder weather.

Fitting panel pieces between windows or around openings requires a cut-back spacing of 1/8" when panels are installed in colder temperatures. Similar spacing may also be necessary when fitting panels into gable ends, over roof angles, around light blocks or any other place where adequate panel movement is prevented.

8.) Alternate the start of each successive row of panels by 8" increments. Be sure the right end piece of the row is no less than 12" wide. Nailon J-channels may be used for inside corner treatments or you may scribe and cut panels to fit into the corner. It is recommended to sleeve the corner with vinyl or aluminum coil prior to installation of panels. Caulk corner after installation.

9.) When completing a wall, face nailing may be necessary. If face nailing is employed, pre-drill a hole in an inconspicuous area, such as a mortar joint. The hole must be larger than the shank of the nail or screw, but smaller than the head, to allow for possible expansion. The head can be covered with matching paint, or use a color complimenting caulk. Usually a 50% Silicon/Latex mixture works very well for this.

Reminders

Some adjustment may need to be made at the vertical overlap of two corners (as they are installed) in order to maintain the corner/panel horizontal alignment. There is approximately a 1/2'' vertical adjustment available.

Fitting panels between windows or around openings requires a cut-back spacing of approximately 1/8'' to allow for product expansion.

Attaching Objects to Panels

Never attach fixtures directly to Nailon siding. When attaching fixtures, use a block and first drill a hole slightly larger than the shank of the fasteners, allowing for expansion and contraction.

Note: Fasteners for fixtures must penetrate the solid substrate.

Special Situations and Suggestions

Situation

  1. Panels won't lock together side to side
  2. The bottom locking fingers won’t lock into the previous row.

Items to Check

The wall may not be level and flat. Check previous panels to ensure that all panels and installation fingers are properly seated.


Situation

  1. Panels are buckling on the wall.
  2. Panels are not laying down flat.

Items to Check

Make sure the nails are not restricting panel movement. Check for proper spacing at side interlocks. Make sure all fingers are engaged into previous panel.


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